Hadong is a rural county in the far west of South Gyeongsang, strung along the clear Seomjin River in the foothills of Jirisan. It's the cradle of Korean tea, grown here for more than a thousand years, and the whole valley is soft, green and slow. Visit Ssanggyesa, a mountain temple wrapped in forest and streams; walk the terraced green tea fields above the river; and if you can, time a spring trip for the Hwagae cherry-blossom road. It works well tacked onto a Jirisan hike or a lazy drive up the river.
What to see and do
- Ssanggyesa — a 1,200-year-old mountain temple set among forest and streams, at the head of a cherry-blossom valley. Come for the walk in as much as the temple itself.
- Hadong green-tea fields — terraced hillsides of half-wild tea above the Seomjin River. Several farms run tastings and let you try your hand at making it.
- Hwagae Market — a busy riverside market on the old border between Gyeongsang and Jeolla, a good spot to graze.
- Hwagae Cherry Blossom Road — a spring tunnel of blossoms known locally as the "Married Couple Road."
- Seomjin River — clear and slow, lined with pine and pale sand, and made for a quiet drive or bike ride.
What to eat
This is tea country, so start with nokcha (green tea) and the dishes cooked with it. The local specialty is jaecheop-guk, a clear, delicate soup made from the tiny clams of the Seomjin River. In spring, look for plates of foraged wild greens.
Getting around
Hadong is deep in the countryside. Reach it by KTX to Jinju and then a bus, or drive in. A car makes a real difference here; the tea fields, temple and river are strung through the valley and public transport is thin.
When to go
Spring is the season to plan around, with blossoms along the Hwagae road and the first green-tea flush coming in. Autumn brings foliage down off Jirisan and thinner crowds.
Insider tip
Book a green-tea experience at a working farm, where you pick, roast and brew your own. It's the kind of hands-on afternoon most visitors drive right past.
